Our taxi drive, MJ, was an immigrant from India. In a heavy accent he said over the phone to his imaginary adversary, "Bitch please. I can't deal with this drunken shit all night." Then his phone carried the ringtone of a thousand Bombay House restaurants across the air of our stale taxi van. It was magical.
Having previously given me his personal cell phone number to call if needed, MJ even returned to pick up our slightly inebriated asses at 2 am when others were clamoring for a ride out of Hell/The French Quarter. We felt like royalty as our taxi pulled to the curb in the whipping wind, throwing up the acrid scent of piss as the desperate and the drunken and the debauched squealed behind us for a mercy ride. Again, it was magical.
At the show, we met friendly NOLA natives who were dying to take us on a mystical mystery tour of the city post-show. Really, I've never been so figuratively wined and dined in all of my travels. After sitting through two opening bands--one I liked called Midnight Masses and another ridiculous mess of a fashion nightmare called Funeral Party--Trail of Dead finally took the stage with their two-drummer glory (see evidence below) at midnight in Mardi Gras masks. At 1:00 am, they called it a night, which, really, was just too soon, but they appeased the masses by handing out all of the free beer they'd accrued backstage.
We saw breasts. Really, isn't that what you wanted to know? We saw painted breasts. We saw half-clothed breasts. We saw bare-chested, look-at-me now tits, breasts attached to seemingly pregnant bodies--I wish I were kidding--and boobies bouncing over balconies. It made me flush. I never realized how uncomfortable I would feel in such a liberal environment where cops whistled at drunken nude displays and tramps mingled with scoundrels amidst a backdrop of Jesus Freaks. I texted my parents that my "Southern Baptist upbringing never prepared me for this." They responded, "Don't let us catch you on COPS."
After gourmet crab-stuffed gulf fish in brown butter sauce and meyer lemon eggplant ragouts, we waddled to Cafe Du Monde for pre and post drinking beignets and cafe au laits. New Orleans is food heaven sinking into the pits of Hell. All of its citizens of iniquity only made my food taste more delicious. I washed it all down with Abita, Louisiana's finest microbrew, and chalked it up to just another experience I'll have to censor in the stories for my children.

Jesus on Bourbon Street
Trail of Dead at Midnight







